If you are middle-aged, a parent of a young child and not terribly fit but enjoy being in the mountains, then Gushaini is the place to make a week-long break. Lying on a bed next to a large window facing a river, feeling its waters rush and race over the rocks right next to you. Life is beautiful…
The idea of a week or two spent lolling around in a cottage high up in the mountains with one’s loved ones for company and also the birds, is the essence of a summer break well taken. Gushaini, located strategically on the banks of the energetic Tirthan stream amidst orchards on the slope of mountain, is just the place to unwind and recover from the pressures of city life. What makes the stay in Gushaini special is that you are far away from the noisy crowds that throng Manali or Shimla in pursuit of a summer holiday destination in India.
Beyond Gushaini lies the expanse of the Great Himalayan National Park. That means you’ve just reached Himalayan Heaven, with nought for company but the occasional sweet bird that flies out of the park and lands next to your hammock.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
One serous option in Gushaini is to do absolutely nothing. If you are not the kind who wishes to set targets for the day, even on a holiday, you have many choices. You can lie in the hammock through the day and read a book, or doze in the warmth of the afternoon sun.
You can also look for shady spot in the orchard and lie in the grass listening to the crickets and have long conversations with your child, read a story, go pick apricots or then just play monopoly in the garden in the sun. Evening can be spent sitting around the bonfire, singing or just munching through some deliciously fried trout. Yes, this is trout country and this rare species of rather bony but tasty fish is available right in the stream flowing next door.
TAKE A DIP, CAST A LINE
In case you do want some start-up action, go down to the stream for a dip in the icy Tirthan. The water is deliciously inviting a clear blue and in parts you can see little pools with small waterfalls that beckon you to just submerge yourself. We did find a small sandy lake just a few feet upstream with a nice pool of waist-deep water. At the end of this invigorating hot-cold treatment you have built up a good appetite for lunch, followed by a delicious snooze.
You can also spend the day fishing for trout in the stream. We spotted few of serious anglers across the road driving upstream to go fishing.
There are also walks that you can do around the orchard. There is a temple almost 1000 ft above the orchard and it is a rather child-friendly trail. It is approximately a 3 km walk through thick forest. Another walk is to the village and ahead of that to the boundary of this "Great Himalayan National Park".
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
The Gushaini cottage by the Tirthan, better known as Raju’s Cottage is simple, aesthetic and comfortable. In a sense, staying here is quite like visiting a friend’s house. There are three sets of rooms for guests in ground floor and owner of the cottage, Raju lives on the first floor. The cottage made of pinewood and built with care to let in the light and sounds through its large windows. One charming fact is that to get to the cottage from the road you have to cross the river. There is a small basket-like metal frame that dangles from a pulley. At first sight it looks too small, too precarious to thrust your big frame into, and to make the journey over Tirthan below, which is flowing at high speed over huge boulders. Before you can even ask about the capability of the basket to ferry you across, Raju informs you that the maximum weight that it has taken to the cottage is 120 kg! As you swing over the river – believe me, it only take seconds – you are suddenly suspended right over the stream, the cold mountain air surrounding you with a view of the river that only birds would know of. Raju’s wife cooks the meals here. Her repertoire includes fried trout, chicken, pasta, Chinese and regular Indian foods.
Gushaini has another lovely stay option in Himalayan Trout House situated in Nagini Village. The resort describes itself as “a social centre in the Tirthan Valley providing a friendly place for trekkers, campers, and visiting fishermen to meet each other, share bonfires, exchange stories and read, eat outs, listen to music, laze in hammocks”. Fresh Trout is the highlight on the menu here.
State: Himachal Pradesh
Location: at the border of the great Himalayan Nationa Park at almost 4500 ft
Best Season: February to June and again September to November
Routr from Delhi: NH1 to Ambala via Karnal; NH22 to Zirakpur; NH21 to Aut via Ropar, Bilaspur, Mandi and Pandoh Dam; state road to Gushaini via Larji and banjar
AROUND GUSHAINI
Shoja: A visit to Shoja is a absolute must. This is a small village just 20 km from Gushaini at about 8,000 ft, towards Jalori Pass. It takes an hour of steep driving on a slightly bumpy road via Banjar, will get you to this stunningly beautiful village. The drive up is picturesque with its dense forest, small waterfalls, green fields and innumerable little chai shops that make you want to stop and soak it all in, just that bit longer. With purple iris growing wild all over the hills in June, the dappled sunlight, the aged fir trees and grassy patches, Shoja became popular as best hill station in India.
GETTING THERE
BY Air: Nearest airport is Bhuntar, Kullu (50 km/ 2hrs)
By Road: From Chandigarh via NH1 to Ambala and then NH21. Continue on Manali Highway (NH21) to Aut, cross the Beas River to Larji, then drive almost 21 km to Banjar, where you turn left for the 5 km run to Gushaini.
By Rail: Nearest Rail station is Kalka Station. Take a Cab/ Bus/ Toy train from kalka and drive up NH22 to Kingel via Shimla. Turn left to Banjar (almost 98 km from Kingel) via Jalori Pass and Shoja. Then take right turn to Gushaini.
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